Corner of a finished walnut river table where the cured epoxy pour meets the table end, transparent and glass-hard through its full thickness
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Best Epoxy for River Tables (and How Much You Need)

Two questions stop most river tables before the form is even clamped together: which resin goes in the channel, and how many gallons to order. Get the first wrong and the pour cracks or cures cloudy. Get the second wrong and you're standing over a half-filled river at 9pm waiting on shipping.

Here's how we'd answer both.

The Short Answer

The best river table epoxy is a deep-pour casting resin, not a table-top coating. Liquid Glass Deep Pour is a 2:1 casting resin built for exactly this — it pours up to 4 inches deep in a single application, depending on your ambient temperature and total mass, so a typical river fills in one shot instead of a week of layers. For quantity, measure your channel and run this: length x average width x depth, in inches, divided by 231. That's your gallons. Add 10% and order the next kit size up.

Why a River Table Needs a Casting Resin, Not a Coating

A river channel is a deep cast, and a thin-pour coating poured at that depth will overheat, yellow, or cure cloudy — sometimes all three. Coatings cure in a sixteenth of an inch, where heat escapes almost as fast as the reaction makes it. Stack two inches of that same chemistry into a channel and the mass holds its heat in. That's what cracks a table.

Casting resins are built the other way around: slower, cooler, and clear through real depth.

Product Ratio Max per pour Gel / demold Role on a river table
Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Casting Resin 2:1 2:1 by volume (100:44 by weight) Up to 4", depending on temp and mass Gel 10-12 hrs, demold 48-72 hrs The river itself. This is the one.
24 Hour Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy 2:1 2:1 by volume (100:43 by weight) 1" per layer Gel 18-20 hrs, demold 24-36 hrs Shallow rivers, or when you need the piece moving fast and don't mind layering.
Superclear Table Top Epoxy 1:1 1:1 by volume 0.25" per pour Demold 24 hrs Seal coat before the pour, flood coat after. Never the river.

All three reach full cure and maximum hardness at 30 days. Demold is not fully cured — worth knowing before you ship a table to a customer.

We formulate and manufacture all of it in-house at FGCI in St. Petersburg, Florida, in small batches. Sixty years of making it here, not labeling someone else's.

How Much Epoxy You Need for a River Table

Woodworker measuring the width of an empty river table channel between two live-edge walnut slabs dry-fitted in a pour form

Multiply the channel's length by its average width by its depth in inches, divide by 231, and you have your gallons — 231 cubic inches is one US gallon, and epoxy is sold by volume.

Three steps:

  • Measure the channel length, end to end, in inches.
  • Measure the width at five or six points and average them. A live edge is never straight. One measurement in the middle of a bulge will cost you a gallon.
  • Decide your finished depth, then multiply and divide by 231.

Say you're building a 72-inch dining table with a river that averages 6 inches wide, poured 2 inches deep.

72 x 6 x 2 = 864 cubic inches. Divide by 231 and you get 3.74 gallons. Add 10% for the material that stays behind in the bucket and the edges you measured optimistically, and you're at 4.1 gallons.

Here's how common builds map to kits:

Build Channel (L x avg W x D) Gallons + 10% Kit
Console / side table 30" x 3" x 1.5" ~0.65 gal .75 Gallon Kit ($99.99)
Coffee table 40" x 4" x 1.75" ~1.3 gal 1.5 Gallon Kit ($169.99)
Dining table 72" x 6" x 2" ~4.1 gal 3 Gallon Kit + 1.5 Gallon Kit ($239.99 + $169.99)
Conference / long dining 96" x 7" x 2.5" ~8.0 gal 9 Gallon Bulk Kit ($899.99)

When the math lands between two kits, go up. Running out mid-pour costs far more than a leftover quart: a partial pour that sets before you can top it leaves you sanding and bonding a seam you never wanted.

The Four Things That Change Your Number

Four variables move the gallon count, and three of them push it up.

1. The live edge. Slabs bow, wander, and bulge. Averaging five or six width measurements gets you close; rounding up covers the rest.

2. The seal coat is separate resin. Before the deep pour, brush a thin coat of Table Top Epoxy onto the channel faces and live edges. Wood is porous, and the air inside it will push bubbles into your river all night if you skip this. Order that coat separately and keep it out of your river volume.

3. Depth, mass, and room temperature interact. You can pour up to 4 inches at once, but the deeper and heavier the pour, the more heat it holds. Ideal working temperature is 70-84°F, and the greater your volume or thickness, the cooler you want that room. If you've never poured 4 inches, try it on something small first.

4. Bucket loss is real. You don't scrape the bucket into a pour — the material clinging to the sides and bottom is the least-mixed material you have, and dragging it in creates soft, hazy spots. That resin stays behind, which is part of why the 10% exists.

Getting the Pour Right

Four habits separate a clean river from a re-do, and each is about the pour rather than the resin.

  • Level the form, not the table. Deep pour self-levels, which means it will find level whether or not your form agrees. Shim it before you mix.
  • Mix five minutes, then transfer and mix three more. Scrape the sides and bottom hard while mixing. Then pour everything into a second clean bucket and keep going. Unmixed resin left on the first bucket wall is the most common cause of a soft or cloudy patch.
  • Heat gun from six inches, sweeping. Keep it moving to release bubbles. Hovering distorts the surface.
  • Finger-tighten your clamps. Slabs float, so they need weight — but as the resin cures, the wood needs room to flex. Clamp it down hard and pressure builds in the epoxy, which means stress, extra heat, and cracks.

If your river comes out hazier than you want, what makes resin cure crystal clear covers the causes and fixes. Tinting the channel instead of leaving it water-clear? Our guide to coloring epoxy resin has the pigments that play well with it.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much epoxy do I need for a river table?

Multiply your channel's length by its average width by its depth in inches, divide by 231, and add 10%. A 72-inch table with a 6-inch-wide river poured 2 inches deep works out to 864 cubic inches, or 3.74 gallons — call it 4.1 gallons with the overage. Measure the width at several points and average it, because a live edge is never a straight line.

What is the best epoxy for a river table?

Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Casting Resin 2:1 is the one we'd put in the channel. It's a casting resin formulated to cure crystal clear at depth, up to 4 inches in a single pour depending on your temperature and total mass. Table Top Epoxy 1:1 is a coating — it belongs on the seal coat and the final flood coat, never in the river.

Do I need to seal the wood before pouring a river table?

Yes. Brush a seal coat of Table Top Epoxy onto the channel faces and live edges first, or the air trapped in the porous wood will bubble up into your pour. Let the seal coat get tacky before you pour the river. If it fully cures first, scuff it with 320 grit and wipe it down with 90%-or-higher isopropyl alcohol before pouring.

Where This Fits

This post covers which river table epoxy to use and how much of it to buy. For the full build — form construction, slab prep, demold, and finishing — see our complete guide to how to make a river table. If you're still weighing the two systems, deep pour vs. table top epoxy puts them side by side, and deep pour epoxy for woodworkers plus choosing the best deep pour epoxy go deeper on casting generally.

Ready to Pour

Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Casting Resin 2:1 comes in 48oz through 3-gallon kits, and bulk kits run to 21 gallons for shop work. Not sure whether your slab measurements add up? Call us at 888-849-0588 or email superclear@fgci.com — we make the resin, so we're happy to run the numbers with you before you order.